I am also using Michael Mayer’s PCB and Trixie (64 bit).
50% of the times, the display does not work (backlight is OK, but disaply stays blank/empty) - this is a pain.
Are you encountering the same issues ?
On my side, dmesg is not showing anything and and don’t know where to look… maybe an issue with my poor soldering job… or the display not correctly connected?
Also, if you are using the picocalc without desktop, you can try my keyboard driver from here (I suppressed the “mouse” mode):
At the moment, I am also trying to fix the bt audio stuttering with info from this issue:
Hi, I am running 32 bit Trixie, followed Michael Mayer’s git repository ( GitHub - ironat/picocalc_trixie ) did not encounter any issues with the screen. I haven’t got around to fixing the shutdown service, so when I shutdown I am pretty much in the state that you described (screen on, but no output) for now I just turn device off untill I have time to fix it. Does the light on your raspberry turn on when you are in that state?
Regarding your keyboard driver, how is it different from the one that Michael/wasdwasd0105 posted? Is it just suppressed mouse mode? Because I actually like that more than the one that comes with PICO-8.
When the display stays blank, the Pi runs normally (I can ssh and restart it); I can even blindly log in and shutdown the pi. Today, I checked the display connection (open, insert ribbon again, close) and I also unplugged-plugged again the Pi. Same behaviour: display only works one every 3 to 4 times
Concerning the keyboard driver in my fork: yes, I only suppressed the mouse mode and fixed a few compilation warnings - that’s all. And I changed the bash script (keyboard installation) because one of the packages is not required for 64bit.
To fix the picocalc shutdown, I had to do 2 things:
install the shutdown script and systemd service from the picocalc_trixie repo
update the BIOS/keyboard driver
So far, everything works fine (except the display…).
I’m about to have a new back case printed, so that I can use the USB ports on the pi.
After digging a bit more, I think I understand what is going on with the display.
There are 2 DRM drivers: vc4 and panel_mipi_dbi
There are 2 framebuffer devices created: /dev/fb0 and /dev/fb1
When my display is working, I have this line in dmesg:
Just a quick note to confirm that bluetooth audio quality got much better using the following parameters:
##|# Improved Bluetooth coexistence parameters
##|btc_mode=1
##|btc_params8=0x4e20
##|btc_params1=0x7530
# Improved Bluetooth coexistence parameters
# see https://github.com/RPi-Distro/firmware-nonfree/issues/33
btc_mode=5
btc_params8=5000
btc_params9=40000
btc_params50=0x2000
(file /lib/firmware/brcm/brcmfmac43436s-sdio.raspberrypi,model-zero-2-w.txt - it could be a different file for your Pi zero 2, see issue #33 from the above link)
I’ve followed the PicoCalc Trixie guide on an original Zero W, and I just want to say I can confirm it works great. For future users, here’s some things I didn’t see anyone mention:
The original Zero takes about 50 seconds before it even begins booting and then takes another 50 seconds to get to a login. I probably should have just put the $15 down for a Zero 2 instead of just using the old Zero floating around the house.
Also, the original Zero has a different architecture than the Zero 2, so while all the drivers work fine for audio/screen/keyboard, it’ll be hard to find packages for other programs that you want to use, because while it’s already hard enough to find ARM packages, the Zero is specifically armv6l/armhf, so it’s kind of obsolete. Coming from Arch Linux, I also had to learn that Debian Trixie’s repository only has older packages.
You don’t have to make a PCB or anything to fit the Zero into the original case. Looking at the back of the PicoCalc, you can put the Zero to the left of the Pico header sockets on top of the SD card, then get Pico-sized male headers and solder the proper connections, then put tape on the bottom of the Zero to avoid the SD card shielding from shorting the Zero in any way (just in case). Then you’ll be able to pull the headers out and put a Pico back in if you ever want.
For those interested, I tried using Neovim with Lazyvim, but all the git clones keep timing out because the Zero has horrifically slow download speeds.
tl;dr – the og pi zero works fine but pls get pi zero 2 it’s just better
hello everyone, whats the latest on the zero 2w upgrade? does anyone sell adapter boards, cases etc etc? whats with the power issue? we need a full tutorial here
i read some of the thread but it is way too long.
they just shipped my picocalc and i have a pi zero 2w on standby.
Given that that system-on-module is now sold for $33, it not that cost effective tbh. For comparison i found a RK3506G 7" 1024x600 HMI device at $31, which i already have running from USB flash drive as the board has no tf/sdcard slot. Running a on-screen keyboard with it pictured below
The quickest way to get an adapter board is the PCBWay project linked to from that description. I ordered the minimum quantity and got 5 delivered in the UK in about 3-4 days. You need to be able to solder the headers and Pi Zero to that adapter board so you need to buy the headers and have soldering equipment handy.
For a case if you have a 3d printer the case is available at the printables link. If you don’t you can probably google a 3d print to order service and upload the files from there.
I’ve opted out of the external USB mod because finding the wiring schematics or working it out was more effort than it was worth for my use case.
For os trixie appears to be working well from the instructions again linked in the description.
I’m not aware of outstanding issues with power but I start my 2w build today so I’ll update here if anything needs poking with. Maybe summarise as a tutorial and throw a link up.
Many thanks for everyone’s help in the thread, apologies if I have anything wrong.
I had the idea to expand the board to include an RTC. But unfortunately, I haven’t gotten around to it yet due to lack of time. Plus, I finally got my uConsole last week, so now I have another “toy” that demands my attention.
Wow thank you for taking your time to write such an in-dept reply. I also happen to reside on this side of brexit. Since you have way too many boards to juggle safely, wouldnt you like to sell one? Id take one off you, just for your safety.
But what about using just cables instead, and not defiling such a cute little case? I dont mind a bit of soldering.
Otherwise there have been no issues so far, I’m booted to console and my aim personally is to run it as a dedicates pico-8 machine. so my next job is getting pico-8 on there and finalizing.
I think the case mods are actually only really to provide better access to the pi zero. Like if you want direct access to gpio, or what have you. Because I’m not fussed I just chucked it back in the original case and it clears for me so
The build itself all fits beautifully and was nice and easy.
Where you based? I got spare boards I’d be happy to send to a UK address.
Yeah i wouldve done the extra work to fit it all in the original case. But now i may not even have to.
What a time to be alive. Whole computers the size of a thumb for pennies, people printing plastic, random people gifting stuff over internet, the internet heavier than what thumb computers can handle. I dont like the last one.
Everything fit nicely into the original case for me, and I don’t need access to ports, the sd card or gpio in day to day use! Super happy.
Absolutely love the PicoCalc for this purpose. I was using a uConsole before, it’s not bad but it’s overkill. The PicoCalc is lighter, powerful enough and easier to reach the full keyboard on! Definite upgrade for this use.
case still virgin, i see. love it. i still havent attempted mine, as RM fumbled your board delivery. but i wonder if i could extend wires from pi zero mini usb to actual case side and mount a usb-A there. i wouldnt need to swap SD on daily basis, but usb peripherals could be useful. especially when the enclosure has no trackball.
yeah that screen and pico zero 2 (w off) should yeald pretty decent battery life. there are 3.5A batteries on amazon. 2 of them = 7Amps. 6hrs on uconosole, who knows how long on zerocalc
