This is Yout idea about pro ‘sometimes’
I thing all time about normal game device. I need one small modifications. You changing my name and fighting with Your imaginations
English is clearly not your native language, what you just said have nearly no meaning.
Anyway, to go back to the original question, there is no need for a full USB-A connector if you have such a cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/aLLreLi-Micro-USB-OTG-Cable/dp/B0064GZAIQ
Which is a standard microUSB OTG to USB-A cable, you can find them for really dirty cheap
I’ve got two of them, but I’m thinking I might need the USB hub. I only have an AC to USB splitter right now. I will probably want a keyboard and mouse at the same time, though I understand that interface can be read “in her face.” And don’t forget “graphical in her face.” Comedy like that deserves a mention.
P.S. Knowing what you are doing and not knowing the back-end is better than knowing nothing at all. But as I was trying to describe earlier, the visible output really follows events at a more deeply logical level, with computer engineering concepts actually being required in case anything goes wrong.
Little did he know that the things that matter could be the topic for an entire thesis.
Why stop at just one USB cable? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LTHBCNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I hate additional cable, device etc.
Many users too
If you come down to the brass tax here, the campaign is funded and the Game Shell is in the process of being mass produced for the backers, so they aren’t going to do any hardware changes at the scale of adding in a new port to the Clockwork Pi (the motherboard of the Game Shell) for this iteration of the product. Even if this was something easy to do, we all paid for the Game Shell as it is, so doing this change after it’s funded would be alienating to their buyers.
However, all that being said, part of the beauty of the Game Shell is it’s modular nature. If you look at the Clockwork Pi, there’s a 14pin UART/I2C/SPI/GPIO connector at the “bottom” of the board. USB at it’s core is just 4 wires (2 for power, 2 for data), and there’s plenty of existing solutions for USB to GPIO for open hardware boards. There’s also the keypad, which is Arduino compatible with two 30-pin ports that could potentially be used as well (correct me if I’m wrong on this, I’m still a bit new to how Arduino works).
So while getting a baked in full USB port is not going to be added to this iteration, and you don’t want to carry around additional cables, if you truly want a full USB port you can add on with four wires and a bit of solder.
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Out of interest, why not a laptop for these uses?