This is a summary of the various hardware peripherals/modifications purpose-built for the uConsole. Prices are in United States dollars unless noted. I’ll be slowly working on this as there is a large uConsole hardware ecosystem to document. For a guide to software, see the companion OS directory.
Base unit
There are a couple ways to acquire a uConsole, but the best way really is the official shop.
- The official ClockworkPi shop is the only first-party supplier. The A-06 and R-01 SKUs are sold out but the CM4 is still in stock at $250 excluding shipping. This includes the uConsole, a ClockworkPi CM4 adapter board, and a CM4104000, which is a 4GB RAM, eMMC-less Raspberry Pi Compute Module 4 with on-board WiFi/Bluetooth. Shipping from ClockworkPi takes a very long time; one of the oldest posts in the uConsole topic on this forum is an ad-hoc shipping batch tracker.
The extreme wait times lead people to pay very high prices to third-party resellers to get a uConsole early. Please note that you are totally being played if you pay more than, say, $350 including shipping for a base unit. Even the “super hacker” “pimped-out” uConsoles on-line where someone actually added a modicum of value are rarely worth it.
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AliExpress, at, for example, aliexpress.us, is a popular uConsole source, though it’s of poor reputation.
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eBay sometimes has some uConsoles being sold.
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OpenSourceSDRLab has a uConsole listing at a reasonable price.
Instead of turning to these resale websites, see if you can find someone selling their uConsole here on the forum, where you can scroll people’s profiles and see what they actually did with their console and why they’re moving on. It’s harder to lie about the accessories you have installed (for example, calling an AIOv1 a modded AIOv2) on the forums frequented by the makers of those accessories.
It is advised not to purchase from either “ETech Devices” or “PiMod Labs” as they have been spammed here by bots.
Chassis
It’s possible to build a “ship of Theseus” uConsole without having ever purchased the base unit; the device is open hardware and is composed of three PCBs excluding adapter boards, cores, or the keyboard. ClockworkPi offers 3D models of the uConsole in OBJ and STEP formats ($5 or free with coupon code UC) for reproduction. There are also coarse models that were deduced prior to the official release.
There are also plenty of unofficial chassis 3D models for printing.
Above is the uConsole back cover for passive cooler on Maker World.
The uConsole Omega Chassis is beams’ modular chassis design. Its announcement (with accompanying thread) explains the rationale; much is changed to improve airflow, battery capacity, I/O capacity, and the speakers’ sound.
For £26 available on Jing’s website one can license the design files for personal use, which include thorough documentation and an ordering guide for actually obtaining the components.
Production Cost Estimation
Following the purchase of the build guide, here is an estimated cost to produce the major parts. The CNC components are modular and require no major updates so these are likely a one-time cost.
Prouduction Cost Estimate CNC Parts ~85 USD + Shipping MJF Nylon Parts ~32 USD + Shipping
Mainboard
The official uConsole motherboard is the ClockworkPi v3.14 mainboard. Two versions retailed; the original and its fifth revision. There are no known cases of the uConsole shipping with an original v3.14 mainboard, only the R5 board. The board is available for purchase separately through the shop for $40 excluding shipping. Be careful not to choose the similarly-named v3.1 board which is a different product for the GameShell.
USB power brownout
The mainboard can sometimes have issues supplying power to all the peripherals on the Universal Serial Bus if there’s a sudden increase in power draw, such as when a flash drive with status LED is attached. This problem affects the keyboard most of all:
There’s a hardmod one can make to the mainboard to prevent the brownouts entirely:
This workaround is still useful if one needs a certain level of reliability from the US bus but another option is to install beams’ QMK firmware.
Indicator LED
The charge LED is wired to the AXP228 charge controller.
Mainboard WLAN
The mainboard has a WLAN adapter for use over SDIO with compatible cores (listed in the Cores section).
It’s inaccessible through any available adapter board.
On the mainboard, the WLAN subsystem uses the GPIO pins 3-7 for basic configuration, 14-17 for UART, 18-21 for PCM, and 22-27 for SDIO. These are all wired to the SODIMM connector for the core modules. The adapter board wires the SODIMM pins to the CM4 pins like so:
- SODIMM GPIO3-5 → CM4 GPIO3-5
- SODIMM GPIO6-7 → floating
- SODIMM GPIO14-27 → floating
So the best one can do with the CM4 adapter board is mess with the enabled state of some of the radio components on the mainboard, and one would need a new adapter board to use the mainboard’s radios.
The antenna connector on the mainboard is for the mainboard WLAN and only has function if using that WLAN adapter.
New revision
In March 2025 ClockworkPi was working on another mainboard revision:
I sent an email to Alex last week and he told me that a new mother is under development, but he didn’t give me any more information besides that.
Unfortunately I do not know, there is no information being confirmed for what the upgrades are and when it might be released.
Around the start of June 2026 another person, this time on Facebook, claimed to have heard about the new mainboard from official sources:
Screens
TXW50017B0 (first panel)
The exact model number is on the back there, and it is a TxWEI screen, part number TXW50017B0.
Dimensionally, the module is 119mm x 65mm, with a 111.25mm x 63mm active area starting 1mm x 1mm from the top-left, the primary ribbon connected to the right hand side, and exiting the footprint 75mm from the left.
Electrically, it’s a standard 40-pin LVDS (like a laptop screen). It is not MIPI (like the official Raspberry Pi display).
Logically, it’s 1280x720 resolution.
Practically, your best option is to email clockwork to see if you can source a replacement directly. I just worked out this stuff because I wanted to see what my options might be for upgrades. The fact that it’s standard LVDS implies I might be able to re-case it in a variety of ways with size-matched screens with just a few tweaks to config.txt.
TXW500170B0-FPC-01 (second panel)
What are the differences between the old and new panels ?
practically nothing, just minor differences in the driver initialization
After comparing the [second and third panels], it turns out the only real hardware difference is a single [resistor], shown below.
this is the [second] display module.
TXW500242B0-FPC-00 (third panel)
This is the new display module.
uConsoles have been shipping with newer panels since 2025. Not all released operating systems have compatible kernels. If using a newer panel, see the notes for the distribution. Rex’s distributions have updated kernels, and there is one distribution for the A-06 with a compatible kernel:
Just made a minimal archlinux for A06 with new screen driver,hopefully can resolve the garbled problem.
Touchscreen
A Touchscreen uConsole?

@timmotools managed to mod a touch screen into their uConsole using a digitizer and a USB controller for it. They have a thread and a writeup on GitHub.
External displays
As the cable is a passive electrical component any micro HDMI to HDMI plug-plug adapter should work without complaint.
Just got these and they work perfectly:
Pete B.
Adapter boards
Cores
See the separate core and adapter board directory.
Extension boards
See the separate extension board directory.
Battery boards
The battery board routes the power from the batteries to the mainboard, where the mainboard’s AXP228 controls charging. Other than some fail-safe circuitry the stock battery board is fairly sparse. Aftermarket battery boards tend to add functionality by routing additional data lines off the mainboard or core.
Batteries
…They all output 3.7 volts. It’s the amps that we are discussing here [in the context of capacity]. More accurately the Amp-Hours. Amp-Hours determine how long the batteries can keep a device powered on. What we have found is that many battery manufacturers are out right lying and claiming huge capacities. Then when they are tested their capacity is far far lower. Example: the 9900 mAh battery that is only 500 mAh. The manufacturers are just outright lying…
It’s not just capacity that matters, it’s current output. The battery needs to deliver enough current to power all of the attached devices, or the device will lack power and shut down. Capacity is how much power, total, the battery can output, while the current output refers to how quickly the battery can output that power. A liter bucket of water can fill your cup, but if you can only draw water from it a single drop at a time, you’ll still be thirsty.
Here’s a reasonable recommendation:
These are the ones I use and recommend. Get them from a reputable source and not amazon or aliexpress.
And here are two expensive options:
I am currently using those from nitecore, and they provide 5-6 hours of work.
NL1840 Their length is over 69mm (69.8) but they actually are fitted well.
18650 cells are only available in capacities up to 4000mAh (at which they are very expensive).
“Protected” cells are cells which include circuitry to momentarily cut the connection when hazardous conditions are observed such as overheating (too much heat), overcurrent (draining too much energy at once), overvoltage (charged too full), or undervoltage (dangerously low charge). They help prevent some types of error which are more likely to cause a fire. The mainboard charge controller won’t over- or undervolt the 18650s, so protected cells will, in addition to the functionality present in unprotected cells, only cut power if they’re being overdrawn or running too hot.
Warning
Here is the obligatory warning before this directory covers battery-related uConsole modifications. In normal use, one doesn’t need to worry about one’s uConsole suddenly bursting into flame. There aren’t any known cases of this happening to a uConsole with the stock or an aftermarket battery board, at least on this forum. The danger comes with messing around with parallelizing many batteries or other custom solutions to electricity storage. Although members on the forum discuss these modifications and configurations as if they’re simple, because they are, without understanding electrical basics it’s easy to unknowingly introduce problems which can snowball into thermal runaway after a number of charge cycles.
…anyone who doesn’t know what parallel connection means or how it works should not be tinkering with lithium batteries. It’s not fun, it’s very dangerous.
An electrical battery is a cell containing a chemical mixture designed to store as much energy as possible. Energy-dense chemical pouches have some inherent danger and especially when it’s possible to release that energy another way, such as through ignition. Sometimes chemical processes inside the cell inflate it, puncture the casing, and ignite, or in layman’s terms, SOMETIMES THEY JUST RANDOMLY EXPLODE. In a laboratory environment this isn’t a big deal, but if you’re a co-pilot on a plane you can kill yourself and 65 others. Big and small companies struggle to keep their batteries from halting and catching fire. Samsung’s Galaxy Note 7 was infamous for maiming its users.
Last September, Joni Barwick woke up in the middle of the night to her Galaxy Note 7 phone spewing flames 16 inches from her face.
“There’s orange and red and smoke and fire, and it took me just a split second to process that my phone was on fire,” she recalled.
Ten years later there has been no revolution in manufacturing these batteries, we just better understand which designs work and which ones shoot meter long flames into the skulls of people pressing them against their heads for telephone calls. There’s always a chance that a manufacturer’s battery even when used as directed will burn down your car, home, airplane, or fireworks production factory. That’s the risk we take in exchange for easy portable electricity storage.
If a company worth $1,000,000,000,000 can’t stop their batteries from spontaneously combusting when used properly, maybe you shouldn’t use your own batteries like you’re a side character in an 80s apocalypse movie.
18650s aren’t simply “better AAs”. You need to treat them with respect, and don’t just assume that everything will be ok if you do something dumb. Any time you have a loose cell you have to think through everything you’re doing before you do it, then stop and check again.
And “protected” cells aren’t magically safe either - they can potentially prevent certain classes of failure, but they’re not idiot proof, and they can make you complacent.
The United States’ of America National Fire Protection Agency has a section of their webpage dedicated to lithium ion battery safety. Here’s a simple guide from fireblanket.com advising the user place a fire blanket (among other steps) on a burning battery. KNOW HOW TO FIGHT THE FIRE BEFORE IT HAPPENS.
Charge controller: AXP228
The datasheet is available here from alldatasheet.com. The charge controller controls the charging LED and provides to the kernel the statistics regarding the power subsystem.
Voltage
The AXP228 can only charge to a maximum of 4.2v.
Current
add up the maximum current draw of all hardware components of your setup and choose a battery that can provide this total current as a continuous load
TODO
Keyboards and pointing devices
USB brownout
There is a mainboard power issue that can make the stock keyboard disconnect when USB devices are attached. See mainboard.
Kapton replacement
The stock keyboards use kapton to adhere conductive, flexible domes. This kapton can use its adherence, and when it does, the domes fall off, as shown above. It’s easily repairable.
Diffuser
Shown in my kapton replacement forum post is beams’ improved keyboard diffuser.
The primary goal here wasn’t just aesthetics, it was to greatly improve the touch-typing experience. It means it should be clicky but just enough force required to type on each key.
They have a write-up on their blog. The 3D model is available for download for £4.50 and pre-printed diffusers are available for £9.50 excluding shipping.
Trackball
If you are experiencing trackball issues, it is mainly because the EVQWJN007 Trackball production is not exactly the same as the original blackberry trackball (not a surprise). Or the trackball unit has left in warehouse build up moisture and it may need to be ‘cleaned’ or ‘roughed-up surface’. The main difference is the ball variation does not provide enough friction against the 4 magnetic rollers to create the hall effect.
You can experiment with other balls, the ball diameter is 5.5mm-5.6mm.
You will be able to fix or maintain it when it is facing issues by using this maintenance & modding guide.
Touchpads
There are stick-on touchpads for any device:
They make stick-on touchpads. Here’s one: Amazon.com: ETPA Mini USB Computer Touchpad, Trackpad, Mouse, Wired, 1.1 x 1.3 inches Ergo Touchpad ETP001MTPUSB : Electronics - 0.348cm x 0.2825cm (for $60 - yowch!), so it might fit in the center spot, but I’m doubtful. If you took out the trackball mechanism you could stick it on top.
Trackpad keyboard
An integrated solution is Lulu’s keyboard replacement for the uConsole. It doesn’t suffer from kapton adhesion wear either.
Lulu’s trackpad keyboard has open firmware - v1.1 can be had for $35 excluding shipping and v2.0 can be had for $40 excluding shipping.











