Nothing wrong with the current display but I do love the way an OLED looks. Driver would likely be an issue though. Not 100% sure about fitment, but height and width look about right – I’d have to take the front panel off the uConsole to get good 3D measurements though.
Active Area: 61.92 x 110.08mm
Outline Dimension: 65.92 x 118.64 x 1.15mm
MIPI to LVDS might be challenging, especially given space constraints. This vendor doesn’t offer the full datasheet and specifications without talking to sales, which is somewhat concerning.
LVDS is usually used with laptop displays. You might have luck looking at what the Thinkpad and other laptop modding communities’ work adapting screens to LVDS to use modern screens on older notebooks. There’s a touchscreen mod that moves the controlling circuitry to the free space under the expansion board, something like that routing the ribbons over to a LVDS adapter under the mainboard’s mounting might work.
Ouch. Sorry to rub salt in that wound. They’ll come. But there are plenty on here who DO have them – they need to step up and figure this out for me! (And yes, that’s a joke; I’ll probably poke around some more to see if it’s something I’m adept enough to do.)
Honestly, I think the screens are so finicky we’re lucky they work in the first place.
It feels like there should be a race to create the first community offered mainboard, especially one that offers a more common interface for a display and adapts it to HDMI for the Raspberry Pi without needing a custom driver, but nobody seems to be working on this. It must be tricky when there are still rumors that a new mainboard revision is coming and introducing compatibilities with first party components could split the community.
Lots of people have claimed to be trying using alternate panels but nobody has shown success in getting another panel working. It would certainly garner bragging rights.
Can’t one just get a small oled screen and power it with uconsole’s usb-a and connect it with its micro hdmi and replace it with the stock one. Or just power it with a small attached powerbank.
The USB has maybe 1A of current so it’d impact peripheral reliability even if you manage to power the OLED with 5W, plus you couldn’t use external displays without disconnecting the internal display. It’s a worthy endeavor but would get pretty annoying with time.