Thanks for the advise. I’m gonna check that out. The antenna cable is pretty long, so there is a chance it’s touching the chassis more than once along the coiling (it’s coiled like 3 times inside the chassis)
Sadly, I don’t have another device to test it on, but I guess that, worst case scenario, I can settle for the signal I get.
I mean, realistically, I’m not going to have the device with me everytime I’m cooking, I won’t need superb internet either all the time (good enough internet will suffice)
But it felt good to have superb internet for a while haha. If I find something else, I’ll let you all know.
Ok, I managed to get a decent enough signal (35% to 45% strength)at the spot where it dropped to zero.
I read that the antenna should rise above the chassis, “at least 1cm” so it occurred to me that my tests with the laptop antenna were probably when it was hanging.
I decided to add a really thick buffer and that seem to have solved the problem. Moral of the story: get an external antenna.
I am just throwing this out there… Antennas | SpeedyFPV These things are made for strong signal… no one wants to crash their drone due to loss of signal
Yeah, really best to stick to wifi/BT specific products, no shortage of those and the required rp-sma to u.fl cables or patch antennae with u.fl attached if that’s what you want.
overall I am getting around 40% in places where I used to have barely stable 30% signal strength. that 10% improvement does seem to make difference for my case.
Come to think, maybe the stock antenna would work fine if you just use a buffer thick enough to rise it above the chassis.
I’m paraphrasing here but the guys on the thread I found, said the chassis worked as a capacitor or a faraday cage, absorbing the signal. That’s why you have to raise it.
My understanding is that it’s like being underwater and trying to breath through a straw.
If the straw is underwater, no air will reach you.
If the straw is at level, you will breath but any disturbance will let water through the straw
If the straw is high enough above water level, you will breath without issues.
As part of my tests, when my laptop antenna was placed as instructed by the manual, I connected the uConsole to my phone’s hotspot and pointed the antenna towards it. Signal was 80%
When I pointed somewhere else, just by doing that, signal dropped to lower 60’s. It only reached 90+ if I placed my phone right in front t of the antenna at 0mm distance.
So, my guess is that, by rising it, you give your device a better chance at picking up the signal.
This is pure speculation based on mere observation. I have no instruments to measure things… But I can say with confidence (based on experience) that if the antenna is raised enough, your signal will be a LOT better
That’s exactly the same fix I came up with, too. Use the hole in the phone board area. It has to be slightly enlarged, but not so large that it splits the plate. Yes, it is secure because you can put the nut on the outside and tighten it up. If you get a sane sized folding wifi antenna, it looks proportional, and like it was part of the design. You can also unscrew it. I see other users saying they take theirs off. I don’t, because internet/bluetooth are completely unusable without it. I attached the original to the chassis without thinking about it. So, I have to be against the router, or have the antenna that I can pick up wifi and bluetooth at very decent ranges.
Kind of. If you read how capacitors work, it’ll make perfect sense. When you examine a capacitor, it is two conductors separated by a non-conductive substrate. In plain English that is an oreo cookie made out of metal(black part) and paper(white part). Current/EMF flowing through one side , builds charge in the static field(in this case, in the sticker), until it charges, then it discharges across the other side once saturated(into chassis). Imagine that happening to your data. Not good. Isolated, decoupled antenna = better signal/noise ratio.
