Fixed Sega, it only takes .gen & .bin
Fixed Sega, it only takes .gen & .bin
Don’t forget there’s an edit button
Those instructions were more for people who wanted to restore their save rams, save states, and/or bios collections; specifically for PlayStation, as the location of these files has moved since 0.4, and isn’t well documented anywhere. Since the save state is tied to which bios you use for pcsx, it’s important to know where to put your bios as well. A lot of people put it in the wrong location in the past. Other things like mupen just put the save files into weird places.
This is something that happens with standalone emulators; namely PocketSNES and FCEUX. I want to remove them completely personally, but kept them to retain some kind of stock feel to the image. People might complain if I did. If you use the Retroarch cores instead, it doesn’t have the crackling and generally has less tearing in the graphics.
Smash bros runs, but not very well. Banjo Kazooie runs nicely, however banjo tooie has some slow downs. Glad you worked out you need to decompress the 7z file.
That would probably just be the demands of mupen64plus, and not to do with the image. In fact, just a stock image produces just as much heat. I haven’t seen anyone else do it yet, but I have personally had my rear cpi shell melted slightly, doing an extensive overnight compile. I reiterate, this was using the stock 1008MHz and 5.3.6 kernel. Entirely my fault, ie I had the unit in a small bag with no ventilation.
If anything, the 5.7.7 kernel with the 1200MHz governed clockspeed actually runs cooler, and thus uses less power and lasts longer. I made a shortcut to this combination called “Governed”. Note that it still does go up to 1400 if the demands get higher. This is the only combination that allowed suspend, and due to the way the governor changes the clockspeed/voltage depending on load, is the most energy efficient.
The 5.5.9 + 1400MHz has a shortcut called “Overclocked”, and maintains the 1400MHz Overclock/voltage. Use this to do things that don’t like being cpu throttles. Strangely however, some things like the gpsp standalone emulator seems to have strange stuttering using this combination; whereas the gpsp core in Retroarch runs perfectly fine. If you want gpsp standalone to work, switch to the shortcut called “Underclocked” to basically make things run as they would on a stock image, ie 5.3.6 + 1008MHz. From memory, both of these just remain at their specified clockspeeds.
The three named “shortcuts” I mentioned above are just combinations that I found myself switching to a lot. It’s to save you having to wait while each individual script runs to go to the same combination again and again. That said, mix and match as you see fit between the kernels and clockspeeds if something doesn’t work. Different game’s and emulators work differently, and have different requirements/demands.
To do a state save in my mupen config, you push shift and select. To load, push shift and start. To do turbo, hold menu. To exit, push shift and menu. This unfortunately also conflicts with volume down and up respectively. I didn’t see it as too much of a problem as I only use a single state save to basically resume where I was when I last played. I don’t use it for trying to save scum etc. Unfortunately there’s not enough buttons to cater for all of the N64 controller’s buttons, and change state save slots.
The controls, from memory are (assuming you have your gameshell assembled like a SNES)
(These correspond to the light keys)
Start=State load (and volume up)
Select=State save (and volume down)
Note: I have configured it assuming that people don’t have a light bar attached. I personally don’t use it, not wanting to have extra bulk. It would be worthwhile editing the mupen64plus config to use a different binding if you did use the light bar. Kind of.
The way the C buttons work on the N64 to essentially be a camera control make having a NSEW cardinally orientated configuration ideal, and unfortunately the light bar shoulder buttons merely mirror these.
It’s probably worthwhile to flash the arduino to use the shift+L/R buttons as the standard registered input. I think I might have also registered the spare shift + L/L2/R/R2 buttons as some combination of the dpad buttons to complete the N64 controller inputs, but never use the Dpad anyway.
Potentially I could use the arduino mouse mod update to simulate more of an analogue stick movement. But realistically, using a Dpad as a mouse, which is then simulating a joystick is kind of counterintuitive. The only problems I have are with games that get you to try and draw a circle. It ends up looking like an etchasketch.
Alright, thank you very much for your help!