I dont have one myself but o have an idea of tucking a bigger antenna in the gap between the two bumps on the back, could make it a nice and out of the way and you could flip it out for a more directional signal
Don’t replicate my heat pipe mod if you’re affixing it to plastic. It’s an upgrade from passive cooling via better passive cooling. The aluminum case is still the heat-sink. If you’ve expanded the space above the CPU socket, you could absolutely fit in an active cooling solution (i.e., a fan and heat-spreader). At the temp’s I’ve gotten (highest I’ve seen is 82C), 3D print materials should not be in contact with the CPU.
Thanks for dropping by to weigh in on this, I was planning to print in ASA or Nylon to avoid deformation from heat transfer. ASA has a heat deflection temperature of 105C and PA-CF is above 150C, should get toasty but not warp.
All I’m saying is don’t put heat pipes on plastic.
ASA will be nice in the hands. I’m been wanting to do something like you’re doing, so I can increase the battery size/capacity, but my 3D printer needs a fresh copy of Klipper, and I just moved on top of that, so everything is in boxes right now.
@CRANK I had the same idea for the upper part of the back cover extending it back. I want to put a LoRa radio and a SDR in there. How’s it feel with it on? Does the kick stand still hold against the unit?
curious - how is cpu cooling accomplished? the back-shell of the uConsole is unconventional and if was flat as you have done it would take very little additional space but I have a thermal pad on the CM4 processor and it dissipates a considerable amount of heat…
I slapped a raspberry pi heat sink kit on the chips of the cm4 … I purchased an additional motherboard so I could build a stand alone uConsole CPU board with the 3rd party Expansion port GPIO pinout … probably will put it in a case… I have several HDMI screens… so it will be ‘portable’