I wrote this in Chinese, and then translated it into English with the Google Translate. If there is anything you don’t understand, please contact me. The original Chinese will be posted at the end.
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Install the screen. Find the fixed board and the screen. The front of the fixed board is for the screen, and the back is for the motherboard, printer, battery compartment and other modules , etc. Therefore, after installing the screen, you will install other components on the back of the fixed board. If you want to insert the screen correctly into the fixing plate, pay special attention to the plastic hood on the left hand. You need to pull it outward with your finger. Otherwise, you will make the first mistake I made. Scratching the metal piece on the side of the screen will cause Slight deformation, but it is not visible at all, and does not affect the use. Firmly push the left plastic hood toward outside slightly, then the screen can be put in place. As soon as you loose your finger, you can hear a snap of a click, which means it is stable. You can try it. Okay, now turn the fixing board over and put the side where the screen is installed facing down. It is best to find a cushion to protect it for the following installation.
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Install the mainboard. The easy place to make a mistake is to see the direction of the 4 plastic bolt. The small end is facing down and the big end is up. If you install it upside down, you will find it is loose? The mainboard is not fixed at all… I thought of adding other stuff at the time, hahaha, but fortunately, I found that it was in the wrong direction.
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Connect the screen and the mainboard. After the installation is successful, the length of the connection is redundant, so there will be unevenness. If you have never installed a computer, what you need to pay attention to is that there is a halfway covered plastic cover that needs to be pulled up manually in front of the interface of the mainboard and the monitor. Pull up the plastic cover then your cable to plug it in correctly, otherwise it will not be plugged in. If you are not sure whether it is plugged in. When it is in place, you can check whether the cable on the back of the connection is aligned with the cable under the motherboard and the display interface. After confirming that it is in place, press the plastic cover down to lock the connection. There will be no sound here to give you feedback, check it visually.
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Install the Raspberry Pi cm3 core board. This is the same as installing a memory stick. Insert the cm3 with some angle sloppy, and then press the both sides, you will hear 1 snap or 2 snaps. If you hear 1 snap, it means you have pressed both sides at the same time. Hearing 2 snaps means that you did not press the both side synchronously, hahaha, look at whether the metal clip on the both side is pressed on the cm3 core board? That means you are in place. If you plan to continue to install the screws in the box, please note that you will immediately face a problem that will easily give you an illusion, that is, there is a plastic protective film on the screw holes which is on the mainboard used to prevent dust. Yes, if you don’t plan to install the screws, you will never find that the developer’s careful design has developed to such a heinous level…Going back to the illusion that I had at the time, I have been wondering if the screw is the wrong model, otherwise it would always be impossible to screw it in… It’s all frustration that I didn’t pass the IQ test.
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Install the antenna. The difficulty is that the size of the antenna is too small, and breathing will affect the accuracy of positioning. It is recommended to plug the antenna on the mainboard interface first. The advantage of this is that at least one end has been fixed. Then you can bend the antenna to align the side plastic plate that needs to be fixed and taped. Before remove the adhesive protective film on the back of the antenna, you Be aware that the pasted part does not have any redundant space, so you need to fix it from the leftmost edge of the pasted position, and then remove the other half of the protective film…perfect.
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Install the speakers. This is the least error-prone part. Just pay attention to the direction of the metal interface of the speakers that is exposed to the outside, they are face to face instead of back each other.
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Install the expansion board. This is also the easiest part. What needs to be reminded is to prepare the 4 plastic bolts numbered B3 first, because the other side of expansion board will be tilted up after being plugged into the mainboard, and you can insert these 4 bolts to fix it.
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Install the thermal printer. There are 2 points to be reminded. 1 is that the roller axle needs to be disassembled and it will be installed on the thermal input tray later. 2 is that the left plastic hood of the plastic base used to fix the thermal printer needs to be pull toward outside by hand, or find a suitable angle to snap the thermal printer into the plastic base, you will hear a snap here.
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Fix the thermal printer. The connection part is the same as the step of connecting the screen and the main board, but here only the expansion board needs to be connected.
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Install the battery module. There is nothing to say here.
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Install the back shell. It should be noted that the covers in the left and right sides and the front switch cover need to be polished of burrs after they were cutoff form the frame, otherwise they will easy to fall out when the front shell is mount on the back shell. By the way, it is particularly necessary to remind that the switch cover has another redundant one. Yes, there are 2 switch covers in total. I only found out when I installed the second cm3! I actually threw the other switch cover as trash…
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Install the keyboard. Note that the plastic protective cover of the plug on the back of the keyboard needs to be removed first.
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Install the front shell. It should be noted that there are plastic buckles on the left and right bottoms of the front and back shells. Carefully observe the positions of the buckles on the front and back shells. You must know that the front and back shells can only be locked when the buckles and the bayonet of the front and back shells cooperate with each other. If you have disassembled the remote control before, you will know this. If you cannot fully close the front cover, check the bottom position of the front shell and you will find that the buckle is not in place. There is a very wide seam, which means that the card head of the back shell is not locked into the bayonet of the front shell. Use a tool to help. It is recommended to find a flat-head screwdriver, align it to the one of left side of the back shell and insert it into the seam, push the card head inward and push down the front shell at the same time, No need to check when you hear a snap, yes, its well assembled. then switch to the other side.
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Install the printer port cover. Read the instructions carefully and insert the right end first, and then push down the left end, then you are going to hear the snap. Otherwise, you will never be able to put it in. I observed carefully later that there was a slope on the left of the back shell to help slide it into the bracket.
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Install the battery. …ignored.
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Install the thermal paper tray. Remember the roller axle that was removed earlier? It needs to be installed on this tray, and it is fine if the direction even is reversed, because it is easy to disassemble and assemble, just be careful. What needs to be reminded is that the grayscale printing of thermal printers is simulated by algorithms. Therefore, try to use monochrome to design the files you need to print. The accuracy of the monochrome printed products will be satisfactory, while the grayscale simulation printing effect is still forget it. Thermal printing paper also has adhesive backing, which is more interesting.
devterm cm3 安装体验，包含一些我犯过错误的细节
1.安装屏幕。找到固定板和屏幕，固定板的正面是安装屏幕的，背面是安装主板、打印机、电池仓等其他模块的，所以，安装完屏幕后的你大部分时间都在固定板的反面安装其它部件。想把屏幕正确地嵌入固定板要特别注意左边的塑料卡口是需要用手指向外侧扳一下的，否则就会犯我犯过的第一个错误，刮擦到屏幕侧面的金属片，会导致轻微的变形，不过根本看不出来，也不影响使用。扳开左面的塑料卡口，屏幕就可以放到位了，一松手指，可以听到卡塔一声，代表稳固了，你可以尝试一下。好了，现在把固定板翻转过来，把装好屏幕的那一面朝下，最好找个垫子垫着保护下，以便进行下面的安装。
2.安装主板。容易犯错的地方是要看清4个塑料插销的方向，是小头朝下大头朝上，如果装反了你会发现很松？完全没有固定住主板….我当时想到了增加填充物，哈哈哈，还好发现是方向错了。
3.连接屏幕和主板。安装成功后的连线长度是有冗余的，所以会有不平整的现象。如果你从来没有装过电脑你需要注意的是主板和显示器的接口前面有需要手动扳起的机关，扳起它你的线才能正确插入，否则是插不进去的，如果你不确定有没插到位可以看看连线背面的排线有没对准主板和显示器接口下面的排线，确认到位了之后再把那个扳上来的机关重新按下去。这里不会有声音给你反馈，目视检查一下。
4.安装树莓派cm3核心板。这个和安装内存条是一样的，把cm3斜插进去，然后按下2边你会听到卡塔1声或者卡塔卡塔2声，听到1声代表你同时按下了2边，听到2声代表你没有同步按下2边，哈哈哈，你再看2边的金属压条是不是压在cm3核心板上面了？那就代表你安装到位了。如果你打算继续安装包装盒内的螺丝请注意你将马上面临一个容易让你产生错觉的问题，那就是主板上用来固定核心板的螺丝孔上面有一层塑料保护膜，那是用来防尘的，如果你不打算安装螺丝你是永远不会发现开发者这个细心的设计竟然发展到了如此令人发指的地步…回到我当时的错觉就是怀疑螺丝的型号不对，否则怎么会拧了半天螺丝一点都下不去啊…完全是智商测试没有通过的挫败感啊。
5.安装天线。难度是天线的尺度实在是太小了，呼吸都会影响到定位的准确性。建议先把天线和主板的接口插上，这样的好处是至少已经固定了一头，然后你可以弯曲天线定位到需要黏贴固定的侧面塑料板，在撕开天线背面的不干胶保护膜前你要知道被黏贴部分是没有任何冗余空间的，所以你需要从被黏贴位置的最左边的边缘开始固定，然后再撕掉另一半的保护膜…完美。
6.安装扬声器。这是最不容易产生错误的项目，注意扬声器暴露在外面的金属接口的方向是相悖的而不是相向的就好了。
7.安装扩展板。这也是最容易的部分，需要提醒的是先准备好编号B3的4颗塑料插销，因为扩展板插上主板后是不平整的，需要这4颗插销固定。
8.安装热敏打印机。有2点需要提示，1是滚轴需要拆卸下来，等下再安装到热敏纸盒上，2是用来固定热敏打印机的塑料底座的左侧塑料卡口需要用手向外扳开，或者寻找一个合适的角度把热敏打印机卡进塑料底座，这里会听到卡塔1声。
9.固定热敏打印机。连线部分和连接屏幕和主板这一步是一样的，不过这里只需要连接扩展板这一端。
10.安装电池仓。这里没啥可说的。
11.安装后盖。需要注意的左右2侧的盖板和前面的开关盖板在剪下来需要把毛刺清理掉，否则放入插槽会不到位或在后面安装前盖时掉出来。对了，特别需要提示开关盖板是有冗余的，对，一共有2个开关盖板，我在装第二台cm3的时候才发现！我竟然把另一个开关盖板当垃圾扔了…
12.安装键盘。要注意键盘背后插头的塑料保护套是需要先取下的。
13.安装前盖。需要注意的是前后盖的左右底部是有塑料卡扣的，仔细观察下前后盖有卡扣的位置，要知道只有前后盖的卡头和卡口互相配合了才能锁紧前后盖，拆过汽车甚至遥控器的都知道这一点。如果你无法完全盖上前盖，检查前盖的底部位置一定会发现卡扣没有卡到位，有1条很宽的缝，说明底盖的卡头没有锁入前盖的卡口，这时需要用个工具来帮一下，建议找个平头螺丝刀或任何又薄又有强度的物品，对准底盖左边卡头位置插到缝里，向内把底盖的卡头往里面顶一下，同时下压前盖，卡塔1声听到了就不用检查了，肯定严丝合缝，然后右边也同样操作即可。
14.安装打印机盖板。看说明书先插入右端，然后往下推左端，卡塔1声。否则你是永远装不进去的，我后来仔细观察才发现左端是有斜面来帮助滑入插孔的。
15.安装电池。…略。
16.安装热敏纸盒。还记得前面拆下来的滚轴吗？需要装到这个盒子上，方向装反了也没事，容易拆装，小心用力即可。需要提示的是热敏打印机打印灰度是用算法来模拟的，所以，尽量使用单色来设计你需要打印的文件，单色的打印成品精度会令人满意，而灰度的模拟打印效果还是算了吧。热敏打印纸还有带背胶的，这是一个比较让人感兴趣的地方。