I wrote this in Chinese, and then translated it into English with the Google Translate. If there is anything you don’t understand, please contact me. The original Chinese will be posted at the end.
Install the screen. Find the fixed board and the screen. The front of the fixed board is for the screen, and the back is for the motherboard, printer, battery compartment and other modules , etc. Therefore, after installing the screen, you will install other components on the back of the fixed board. If you want to insert the screen correctly into the fixing plate, pay special attention to the plastic hood on the left hand. You need to pull it outward with your finger. Otherwise, you will make the first mistake I made. Scratching the metal piece on the side of the screen will cause Slight deformation, but it is not visible at all, and does not affect the use. Firmly push the left plastic hood toward outside slightly, then the screen can be put in place. As soon as you loose your finger, you can hear a snap of a click, which means it is stable. You can try it. Okay, now turn the fixing board over and put the side where the screen is installed facing down. It is best to find a cushion to protect it for the following installation.
Install the mainboard. The easy place to make a mistake is to see the direction of the 4 plastic bolt. The small end is facing down and the big end is up. If you install it upside down, you will find it is loose? The mainboard is not fixed at all… I thought of adding other stuff at the time, hahaha, but fortunately, I found that it was in the wrong direction.
Connect the screen and the mainboard. After the installation is successful, the length of the connection is redundant, so there will be unevenness. If you have never installed a computer, what you need to pay attention to is that there is a halfway covered plastic cover that needs to be pulled up manually in front of the interface of the mainboard and the monitor. Pull up the plastic cover then your cable to plug it in correctly, otherwise it will not be plugged in. If you are not sure whether it is plugged in. When it is in place, you can check whether the cable on the back of the connection is aligned with the cable under the motherboard and the display interface. After confirming that it is in place, press the plastic cover down to lock the connection. There will be no sound here to give you feedback, check it visually.
Install the Raspberry Pi cm3 core board. This is the same as installing a memory stick. Insert the cm3 with some angle sloppy, and then press the both sides, you will hear 1 snap or 2 snaps. If you hear 1 snap, it means you have pressed both sides at the same time. Hearing 2 snaps means that you did not press the both side synchronously, hahaha, look at whether the metal clip on the both side is pressed on the cm3 core board? That means you are in place. If you plan to continue to install the screws in the box, please note that you will immediately face a problem that will easily give you an illusion, that is, there is a plastic protective film on the screw holes which is on the mainboard used to prevent dust. Yes, if you don’t plan to install the screws, you will never find that the developer’s careful design has developed to such a heinous level…Going back to the illusion that I had at the time, I have been wondering if the screw is the wrong model, otherwise it would always be impossible to screw it in… It’s all frustration that I didn’t pass the IQ test.
Install the antenna. The difficulty is that the size of the antenna is too small, and breathing will affect the accuracy of positioning. It is recommended to plug the antenna on the mainboard interface first. The advantage of this is that at least one end has been fixed. Then you can bend the antenna to align the side plastic plate that needs to be fixed and taped. Before remove the adhesive protective film on the back of the antenna, you Be aware that the pasted part does not have any redundant space, so you need to fix it from the leftmost edge of the pasted position, and then remove the other half of the protective film…perfect.
Install the speakers. This is the least error-prone part. Just pay attention to the direction of the metal interface of the speakers that is exposed to the outside, they are face to face instead of back each other.
Install the expansion board. This is also the easiest part. What needs to be reminded is to prepare the 4 plastic bolts numbered B3 first, because the other side of expansion board will be tilted up after being plugged into the mainboard, and you can insert these 4 bolts to fix it.
Install the thermal printer. There are 2 points to be reminded. 1 is that the roller axle needs to be disassembled and it will be installed on the thermal input tray later. 2 is that the left plastic hood of the plastic base used to fix the thermal printer needs to be pull toward outside by hand, or find a suitable angle to snap the thermal printer into the plastic base, you will hear a snap here.
Fix the thermal printer. The connection part is the same as the step of connecting the screen and the main board, but here only the expansion board needs to be connected.
Install the battery module. There is nothing to say here.
Install the back shell. It should be noted that the covers in the left and right sides and the front switch cover need to be polished of burrs after they were cutoff form the frame, otherwise they will easy to fall out when the front shell is mount on the back shell. By the way, it is particularly necessary to remind that the switch cover has another redundant one. Yes, there are 2 switch covers in total. I only found out when I installed the second cm3! I actually threw the other switch cover as trash…
Install the keyboard. Note that the plastic protective cover of the plug on the back of the keyboard needs to be removed first.
Install the front shell. It should be noted that there are plastic buckles on the left and right bottoms of the front and back shells. Carefully observe the positions of the buckles on the front and back shells. You must know that the front and back shells can only be locked when the buckles and the bayonet of the front and back shells cooperate with each other. If you have disassembled the remote control before, you will know this. If you cannot fully close the front cover, check the bottom position of the front shell and you will find that the buckle is not in place. There is a very wide seam, which means that the card head of the back shell is not locked into the bayonet of the front shell. Use a tool to help. It is recommended to find a flat-head screwdriver, align it to the one of left side of the back shell and insert it into the seam, push the card head inward and push down the front shell at the same time, No need to check when you hear a snap, yes, its well assembled. then switch to the other side.
Install the printer port cover. Read the instructions carefully and insert the right end first, and then push down the left end, then you are going to hear the snap. Otherwise, you will never be able to put it in. I observed carefully later that there was a slope on the left of the back shell to help slide it into the bracket.
Install the battery. …ignored.
Install the thermal paper tray. Remember the roller axle that was removed earlier? It needs to be installed on this tray, and it is fine if the direction even is reversed, because it is easy to disassemble and assemble, just be careful. What needs to be reminded is that the grayscale printing of thermal printers is simulated by algorithms. Therefore, try to use monochrome to design the files you need to print. The accuracy of the monochrome printed products will be satisfactory, while the grayscale simulation printing effect is still forget it. Thermal printing paper also has adhesive backing, which is more interesting.
devterm cm3 安装体验，包含一些我犯过错误的细节