If you want to extend your UC almost for free, you can re-use pcb which comes with non LTE unit.
There are 2 unused usb ports there, which requires some soldering
I decided that i need only one external USB, and internal contacts i will leave for possible internal device mount.
With super glue, USB DIP pcb and strong knife you can cut out and mount usb directly to the board(could be safely cut where mounted, but is something would go wrong - you can solder all contacts, including speakers directly to pci)
I mounted it and re-used small black grill from other dead device to cover up(+bonus cooling)
for an external usb port i would suggest soldering a USBLC6-2SC6 in between, it is not required, but it will protect the main pcb from an electric discharge. you just need to solder one pin to the already existing 5V, the other to GND and then let D+ and D- go thru it.
pretty cheap: 5PCS USBLC6-2SC6 TVS DIODE 5.25VWM 17VC SOT23-6 NEW | eBay
Alternative: directly use a presoldered USB-PCB with it already installed, there are a few available on ebay/aliexpress, at least in europe.
currently cannot tell you exact, as i filled this with glue. but reffer to the first photo and the comment. you could find there dp/dm and +5v/gnd, with multimeter you will easily determine power points, than just try ti connect some device. if not recognized - switch dp/dm pins
About to do this as it’s the last part of my mods and I’m freaking out. I suck so bad at soldering stuff this small. First I need to figure out how to strip these 4 tiny wires so I can even begin. Really hope I don’t botch this…
I’ve tried soldering to the first set of pins like in the first picture and in this video
I might be using the wrong pins though, reading that schematic pdf has me a little confused.
I tried soldering from the top left pin 9, 10, 11, 12
9 - VCC/5V
10 - D-
11 - D+
12 - GND
and I’ve tried inverting 11 and 10 as well, but all I get is 5V power and usb enumeration issues in dmesg. Am I understanding the pinout correctly?
It seems like in the first picture of OP here everything is to the left by 1, but if I get usb 5V it must be the youtube video that’s correct no?
I’m too dumb to parse the schematic myself right now, maybe if I huff more solder it’ll become clear.
Well I figured it out, for those trying the same, the schematic starts counting from the right side, so counting from the top right corner of the expansion board.
10 - GND
11 - VCC
12 - D-
13 - D+
14 - GND
The 2 GND pins on either side explains why I got confused, I used 10 → 13 and got my SDR working internally.
So I gave this a shot. Thought it would be a fun first soldering project. I got it attached in the right spot with a bit of effort, but it wouldn’t power on. I tried cleaning it up a bit but it still wouldn’t go. So I cut my loses, cleaned up the solder, and it still wouldn’t power on. It powers fine without the PCB blank, but not if it’s in there. I can’t see any obvious defects with the board. Any ideas?
Under some better light and a magnifying glass, there was a tiny fray of wire bringing pad 10 and 11 hidden under some shmutz. So yeah it’s powering on. Still struggling to get my teensy detected, but it’s powering on.
If you’re facing the plug with the white part on the top, the pins are, left to right
White - VCC
Gray - D-
Purple D+
Black - GND
If it’s your first time soldering, I highly recommend using copious amounts of flux, this will help you get the solder just on the pins, make sure you tin the cable ends before you try soldering them, you should be able to tin the wires and just press the wire to the pad and touch the tip of your iron to the pad for a sec or 2 and it should flow onto the pad.
If you see any bridging you can sweep the iron over the pad from south to north and it’ll reflow the solder and hopefully clear up any shorts.
Also use kapton tape to isolate it (maybe do a better job than me, I was frustrated when I did this.)
