Thanks, are you saying it’s better look for any old nvme gen2 spec ssd?
your kit comes with 2 ribbon cables the smaller one for the battery board often gets left in the silver anti static bag so check them all for the second cable and line up the triangles on the board with the cable markings for both cables.
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It’s for USB 3.0, connecting it with the adapter board and the AIO v2. The ribbon cable for the PCIe was in the small plastic bag with the NVMe battery board. The ribbon cables should be connected as follows.
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Image not loading @vileer…
I think I was block by the CDN, I can’t uploaded the image in this fourm. But here is the image I upload to my shop.
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Which size JSC connector is on the board?
It is a PH 2.0 connector I believe.
Great thanks! I will confirm and post it up here. Im sure thats good info for ordering the right battery.
Also make sure you got correct voltage for circuit protection 5v
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I actually JUST cancelled an order for batteries because of the voltage drop and low amperage output. It was buried in the listing that it was a “NON-POWER” battery. I dont know exactly what that means, but.. NOT for me!
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This is the correct battery https://youtube.com/shorts/MQnXhlg4MUM?si=5ew--A-Ll5TVrgRd @lululvlv can you give more details on this battery so we can buy it thanks brother.
So I bought these from AliExpress but I have been told they wont work properly lol waste of money.
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I am following the discussions about the use of 10,000 mAh batteries with great interest. However, I am increasingly coming to the conclusion that it makes more sense to use two 18650 batteries with 3,500 mAh each. This total of 7,000 mAh is already a decent capacity, and achieving a significantly higher capacity in the size of the battery compartment seems rather cumbersome to me.
In particular, 18650 batteries from reputable manufacturers are easy to obtain, relatively safe, and proven to be capable of high currents. All of these characteristics seem rather questionable to me when it comes to no-name Lipo packs. And it’s also uncertain whether the printed 10,000 mAh are actually achievable.
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You don’t really get the 3500mah on the uconsole either…
There are sufficient tests showing that batteries from well-known brands (e.g. Samsung, LG, Panasonic, Sony) achieve the capacity specified.
I am going to test two 500mAh 954390 batteries in parallel to achieve 10000mAh capacity and high current, while still fitting in the back cover.
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The problem is the uconsole rather than the battery.
I see. You are talking about the current (A), not the capacity (Ah).
uConsole has a stupidly stubborn battery voltage range that is strictly from 4.2v to ~3.3v. The 3500mah 18650s you can get about 2300-2800mah (when you’re lucky) before it drops out of that range. I haven’t figured out how to get around of that yet but that’s the main problem of using large capacity batteries on uConsole currently.
Which means the effective battery life is at most ~5600mah when you’re using it with uConsole.
Meanwhile, the 10000mAh battery I tested can do ~28whr which can be roughly translated to ~7500mah.
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Is this only when using a CM5 or is it also true when using a CM4?
Even if that is the case, it applies to batteries of all capacities. But the higher the capacity, the later the voltage drop. For me, I still prefer to use the most powerful 18650 batteries from a reputable manufacturer.
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