You need an armature radio operator license.
That’s not only the VIN of the RTL-SDR, but also the LoRa and the GPS.
The one on the right.
Thanks, E.M.. Will upgrade anyway, but use this for initial setup/testing.
apparently quotes don’t count as characters
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nope, other way around
Will I get a email notification when the RTL-SDR board ships? I’m order # 1953
We are packing batch #2, #1953 will be shipped within 1-2 days.
The straight one(left) is for LoRa. And the cone one(right) is for wifi.
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After a long wait i have relesased my video of the hacker gadgets board enjoy all hold it helps.
uConsole RTL-SDR/LoRa/GPS/RTC/USB Hub All-In-One Extension Board
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Do not use this one. Doesn’t fit. Use the one with cooling fins.
It works. You will need to cut the white connector and solder red to 5v and black to ground on the board pinout.
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patiently waiting on mine to start testing
Did you remove the four studs? (If so, how?)
Or did you drill four holes so you could mount it ?
I didn’t have to drill out anything except for my switch. The sma was keyed with a flat side and my switch was fully circular. The posts on the cooler fit perfectly to the cm5. I cut a hole in the back plate for clearance. If you’re wanting to stick the cooler on the backplate instead of through it, you’ll need to remove the posts. Mounting to the board puts about a 1/4 of the thickness of the cooler below the backplate.
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Thank you for the pictures and explanation!
Yes that was my initial plan, removing the studs and
stick it to the backplate with a .5 mm thermal tape.
But I don’t know how the studs are attached to the cooler… Shrink fitted, right-turning thread or w/e
I tried removing one with a grip plier, but it didnt budge.
Your solution is great, how did you know exactly were to cut the backplate to fit it that well? Trial and error plus patience?
So I took some cardstock and traced the fin block’s outline onto it and cut it out. I mounted the cm5 with the block attached into the uConsole. I put some doublesided tape on the cardstock and placed it tape side up on the fins.
Here’s where it gets tricky. I took 4 mini screwdrivers like you get with the cm cooler and placed them in the screw holes of the back panel. I lined the shafts of the screw drivers with the screw holes of the chassis and very slowed brought the backplate down onto the uConsole to get the cardstock to stick on the back panel. (Pro tip: bring the battery side down first then the cm side to help ensure proper alignment) Then i traced the paper on the back panel. I then cut carefully inside the lines with a dremel. I then filed to the lines, checking fit constantly to make sure i was on the correct path.
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Very clear now, thanks again!
I’ll go the same route…
One final question;
Since the cooler is PWM, (well, the one I got is) why did you opt for the switch?
Are the needed GPIO pins not available?
I’m a simple man. I didn’t bother figuring out if i could get pwm running through the board. But i did have a latching switch that would fit in the non-used sma hole. Easier for me to wire a switch than figure out how to get pwm running.
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