I ordered another one and hope this time it’s more durable. Also thanks for the tip of Shapeways, their pricing is a bit higher than the previous company, but I hope that also adds quality.
Got it. And the battery module cables are too short. 
But works as intended! Great work!
Edit: Put it all together and the modules fit perfectly! Has anybody a tip for a battery module cable?
Hello all,
I’m in the US and just printed this one as a test and decided I did not like the location of the buttons for how I hold it.
It’s printed in resin and fits well just tested it can be painted in any color by you the new owner. 30 bucks OBO shipped in the US just to cover my resin cost and shipping I’m not making any cash on this at all. Pm me if interested, I’ll ship same day I get payment via USPS.
test case https://imgur.com/gallery/KwFswqB
Seeing as the cables are just a + and - , has anyone considered making their own physical breakout box/extension?
Or even just cutting the cables, soldering an extension with similarly gauged wire, and heat shrinking it?
I’m yet to try this, but it should be fairly straight forward, a better fit (ie not ore cut), and way cheaper than ordering special cables.
If there is anything flawed with this approach, ie added electrical resistance, or shielding problems etc, let me know!
I replaced the battery with a higher capacity battery. It required replacing the connector to reverse the polarity and fit the GameShell power connector, but it also resulted in a longer cable that fit the battery perfectly below the buttons.
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Additionally to what @lasvegas mentioned, you can just get these https://www.amazon.com/1-5MM-Female-Single-Connector-Wires/dp/B0738CV1LP. They’re what was found to work to connect a larger battery in this thread: Swapping out Battery for Larger Capacity Li-Ion?
Should just be able to solder two together, making sure to connect them together in the appropriate orientation so you don’t reverse the polarity. Then you can just use heat shrink tubing, kapton tape, or electrical tape around the exposed portion of the soldered wire so it doesn’t short.
I did mine in half an hour all i needed was a very sharp 3/8 wood chisel to take the 4 speaker mounts, place the light bar to the back, mark it on the out side a little smaller rectangle than the bar so it doesn’t fall out. remove light bar, drill 3mm holes in each corner the use a coping (fret ) hand saw to cut out the rectangle, clean up with a chisel and sand paper. clean up, put light bar in it fits perfect to the back of your speaker and buttons should be flush with back. and i’m a carpenter.
Just put in an order via Shapeway using the v3 stl file. Thanks @xin
Do you still have that stl file? The link no longer works.
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there should be a copy on thingiverse, if not i have a copy
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你好…能问问你这个文件还有吗?我这边下载不了…
could I got a cpoy? please
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