Just got things fixed. It would be earlier if I hadn’t ordered the wrong resistor. From my own experience, I’d say it’s much easier to handle small components like that with a heat gun than a soldering iron.
you have to work out the equation that @vileer provided.
Current limit =6.8K/R
you obtain R by computing how you intend to do your soldering.
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Are you removing the SMD? if YES, then R = what ever value you choose. and the Current limit would be whatever the equation gives
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if you are NOT removing the SMD, parallel resistor equation comes into play
R = R1R2/(R1+R2)
As @vileer used 10K as R1, this becomes
R=10R2/(10+R2)ignoring the “K”
So pick what ever R2 value you wish.
i picked a 5.6K ohm resistor… do the math, and it works out to about 3.6KOhm effective resistance and therefore 1.9mA current limit.
- Otherwise depending on what you choose to do, apply the above logically.
After 30 years, For once, i feel like my Electrical engineering degree counts for something hahahahahah
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I’m surprised there is no option to return for repair without any additional sort of compensation. I’m sure some people don’t care for anything more other than it being fixed. (I’m not affected personally, I just wanted to point it out.)
because on the business perspective, it would be bad. and there are people who would still take it as incompetence and would probably reacted REALLY BAD.
I can confirm that.
One of the new forum members, who registered here to complain, sent me a private message directly, insulting and berating me, asking me what I thought I was doing, “downplaying” the problem.
Unfortunately, there are folks like that. Nice people can send in the circuit board if necessary and waive the additional compensation.
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I merely expressed surprise that’s not even an option in the form. I’ve never heard of a company paying the user for a repair beyond shipping and repair cost.
Does this affect the RJ45/USB-C 3.0 expansion board as well?
I’m doing something completely different with the NVMe battery tray, so with the only PCIe connection already in use by an M5 Stack LLM-8850, I need USB 3.0 for external SSD throughput (though I may try to mount internally with a passthrough cable)
I ordered mine last week by special invoice, after neglecting to order together with the CM5 adapter and battery tray, and then later seeing it wasn’t listed separately on the HG site.
Thank you, but no shipping notification I’ve seen as yet, and now seeing this I’m wondering if it might’ve needed fixing before being sent out?
Can be found in vileer’s initial post.
Ah good, then I’ll be in the clear when it arrives! And one less thing I’ll have to worry about.
HG seems to be really handling this well, the quality of the boards look good I can say.
Hopefully everything goes well with my testing, which really won’t begin until I have proper thermal control over CM5 and LLM-8850, both hot running furnaces.
Lol thank you, so yes is the answer to my question basically 
I understand Ohms law. I wonder what the optimal resistor is. Is 1.9A perfect? I’ll go for that then. I do have a microscope so maybe I’ll just put in the 4.3k smd. I bought 100 of those for €1,28
Does this affect the RJ45/USB-C 3.0 expansion board as well?
It’s not involved. For the specific shipping date of your order, please contact us via the contact page, and my co-worker Zoey will answer it later.
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@vileer did say somewhere that the chip limit is 2A. So IMHO, 1.9 is perfect.
SMDs are too small for me. I have a hot air gun but not super proficient at it and having presbyopia and myopia doesn’t help. 
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Agreed, 1.9 seems like a very good option. btw my eyes are not what they used to be but I have glasses that make everything 3 times as big, those help a lot for tinkering on electronics.
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just ask any random smartphone repair shop to do it for you
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this works as posted earlier in parallel to the existing, right? Hoping to get your wifi module for that at some point and a Bluetooth for the other internal one day…
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@vileer I’ve ordered 【Pre-Order】uConsole Upgrade Kit - Adding NVMe SSD/RJ45 Ethernet/ USB 3.0/AC1200 WiFi(with monitor mode supported) to your uConsole, order #6936.
The item’s description seems to say that it includes the AC1200 wifi card, but near the end of the text it says “The AC1200 WiFi card is not listed in the variants. Please buy it from this link.”.
Will the kit that I ordered include the AC1200 wifi card? If so, why does the text say that it doesn’t? And if not, why does the description say that it does?
Since you are asking publicly: where does it say that it is included?
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The item’s title, “Adding NVMe SSD/RJ45 Ethernet/USB 3.0/AC1200 WiFi(with monitor mode supported) to your uConsole”, seems to be saying that the kit has those features.
To me, including “AC1200 WiFi” in the description says that the wifi adapter will be included, however it’s entirely possible that I’m mis-interpreting things.
I’m mostly asking the question because if I’m confused by this, it’s possible that others will be confused by it as well. I’m not buying the kit to do wifi “sniffing”, so it’s not a deal-killer for me personally (again, I’ve already ordered it and I’m not planning to cancel the order over this). I just think it would be good to clarify the product title and/or the text, so there isn’t any confusion about it, and people know whether to expect the wifi adapter to be included in the kit or not.
For me, this is a list of available options. For example, both the “NVMe Battery Board” section and the “Expansion Board” section include the option “None”, even though “NVMe SSD”, “RJ45 Ethernet” and “USB 3.0” are also listed in the title.
If there is a way to handle the shipping to and from, I can easily make this repair for USA owners. The resistor is between 2 and 6 cents each in a roll of 100 (4.7k) plus shipping from Mouser to get them to me.
Since these are probably ROHS, tweezers to pull the resistor and probably just hot air to put the new one back with lead solder.
But, if you are OK with larger through hole work, here’s how I would handle it:
Big blob of solder on tip of iron, heat the entire 0402 resistor until it slides off.
A little solder wick to clean up.
Either 1/16 or 1/8 watt 4.7k resistor soldered as shown above.
I’d probably use some UV cure glue to hold the resister down and maybe insulate the leads (optional?).